My Swift Gti Turbo 4x4

heres a few pics of my swift from start to nearly finished.

My swift as i bought it





Engine and gearbox removed



Rear floor pan removed ready for justy floorpan


Justy floor pan welded in



Justy rear diff and subframe bolted in


OMP Rollcage



Rusty wheel arches ground down and repaired

good effort why not just buy a justy though ? lol i love red ones

did you live in cornwall or devon?
or buy it from there?

i seem to recognize the number plate

Engine stripped down




Engine rebuilt with forged pistons and H-Beam conrods




ARP headbolts and MLS headgasket



Piper custom cams and solid lifters


Ported and polished head with chambers opened up




Stainless steel oversized valves and head skimmed

Steve i like to make hard work for my self and also more fun and a challenge for me. glad its nearly done tho

No i live in manchester but ive only had the car a year and a half so could have been down there at some point in its old life.

Miniprop extended in thicker tube to strengthen and remove the viscous coupling and give 50:50 drive


Solid mountings for engine and gearbox


smaller alloy pulley, lightened and balanced justy flywheel and 5 paddle ceramic DMDave clutch, all balanced with the crank.



Suzuki Rd inlet manifold with reverse intake


Garrett Gt28r turbo. Vernier pulleys all set up to cams

nice head work did u do it urself?
where did u get ur valves from and how much?, been pricing another engine build

i thought block guards were bad news??

Engine, gearbox, intercooler, alloy rad and all piping fitted



Thats all the pics for now. Need to take some more of underneath and exhaust system and will upload tomorrow.

No i didnt do any of the headwork as its all pretty specialised, but was by far the most expensive part off the engine build. The valves are 0.5mm oversize but i had bigger valve seats put in, ported and polished and chambers opened up. stronger valve springs, solid lifters and custom cams. The valves are from coordsport but cant remember offhand how much they cost. Think about £15 each.

A lot of honda people use block guards and ive not heard any probs with them apart from engines running hotter. Whats meant to be bad about them?

honda block guards are better developed. and had alot of people using then.

in swifts block guards have cracked blocks and cylinders cause the block guard expands at different rates to the block.

I believe dmw dave ran 300bhp without a block guard and fucked a block with a block guard using less power.

have a search on redlinegti


(this is only from memory of what iv read about a year ago)

Ouch. Bit late now. I thought that they stopped the cylinder bores from breaking when running high hp. Ive got a spare engine if it happens but fingers crossed it will be ok. Its made ov ally like the block so hopefully it will be ok.

nice looking stuff you got there and yes those block gaurds never end well in swifts the best thing to do is grout the block with moroso drag racing grout. The problem with the block gaurds is that the block and cylinder walls expand at different rates. when you put aottest piece of alloy inbeetween the 2 just at top wich is the hottest part under boost the expansion has no were to go. the grout fills the block just up to the water pump holding the cylinders sterdy and allowing for even even expansion


steve

Hi,

You are the only 2nd person I know who did this much work to FWD Swift GTi.... well done.
I think benefit of doing this to Swift Gti is log book says Suzuki Swift Gti. If we do Justy mod, it will still say Subaru Justy even though it is re badged Swift Gti AWD or AF34S as we know it.

I think Andy aka Garndi did harder way by taking out the original floor complete and replaced with AWD boot floor.

Do you not need to do something with your steering rack? iirc, Andy moved it up.
I wish I could find replacement liner so that you will not need any block guards or grout...

Cheers
Atchi

Nice work mate :-) whats the part number on the gasket?

Simon

looks good mate how did you get on sealing the rear diff without the viscous there

Cheers mate. I put an oil seal where the bearing for the viscous used to be. Time will tell whether it works or not. What did you do?

Thanks Atchi, when i looked at converting it to 4wd i decided to keep most of the rear floor pan and just cut out along the chassis and weld in the justy floor pan, that way everything lines up perfect. I did move my steering rack up about an inch which only leaves about 3mm of clearence between the rack and transfer box which is ok as ive got solid engine mounts. I also had to weld in the justy rear gbox mount as its in a different position to the swift.

When i bought my swift i decided i was going to convert it to 4wd and turbo it, not realising that most people converted a justy. Been a big job doing it as ive had to put new sills on, repair the rear arches and all the usual welding that swifts need but looking back ive enjoyed doing it. Just trying to get the thing running at the monent.

i put mine in the back end of the prop housing as i put a bearing back wear the viscous one was to help with the shaft wipping but the seal doesnt fit in there very well could do with have the bore opened out a touch

I didnt bother putting a bearing back after i spoke to a few different people as my propshaft was trued to within 0.2mm so should be ok and also it shouldnt need one as theres less rotational mass having removed the viscous. Did u get a bearing specially made?

yer mines trued just thought itd give it bit more stability and no i used 42mm stainless for prop and machined the housing out a bit to fit a standard size bearing

What size piping did you use from the intercooler to the throttle body?

I measured mine between the radiator and chassis and its barely 2" wide

I managed to squeeze 2.5" piping in. Only just fits. When its sll up and running proper im going to get s custom stainless one made up.

Tim154 wrote:I managed to squeeze 2.5" piping in. Only just fits. When its sll up and running proper im going to get s custom stainless one made up.

thats huge, surely it will only add to spool up time....?

It will do but it means also that you can get more air into the engine quicker. In running quite high compression so that should help the turbo spool alot quicker :-)

i run 2.5inch and get full boost at around 3600