Latest race video

heres the latest video from my swifty from Bank Holiday monday just gone

bear in mind the mini i spend most of the 2nd half of the race with is 1600 supercharged model and also i had the fiesta,who passes me once is constantly up my chuff!

but another race win,class championship tied up with 1 round to go and new lap record

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0EtyYEIVAE

Nice driving mate!

Bet your going to miss her once sold?

i will but i dont think theres much chance of it selling to be honest,but im not planning on giving it away so will hold out for the right money

theres no reserve on ebay though mate??? just going to bid yourself to the minimum you would take?

Also mate theres a track day at Blyton soon

Would be awesome to see it in action!

http://www.swiftowners.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=17533

And ahhhh ok! Should have just put it as a classified ad!

there might not be a reserve but it will be coming off well before the auction ends if its nowhere near £9500
they want £152 to put a reserve on it! as the ad states even on ebay £10500 ono

Might not see my last post so will double post haha

nick i take it this is one of your swifts?

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4093/4826405860_7ece2957c8.jpg

that was my original race car before it got written off last year,then what was usuable got transferred to my red one

do you still want the cage and throttle bodies? as not hear anything from you

hopefully i get paid end of the month

ok let me know

this is the white one after its shunt

were any of the bumpers ok after

no mate it was completely shagged,the only panel that wasnt damaged was the passenger side door

looks good mate i notice not a lot of understeer how did you sort this

I cant speak for typhoon but what camber, toe and caster settings do you have. How low is the car on whos shock absobers and what rate springs do you run, What type tyre and what hot/cold pressures do you use. Are there standard or upgraded bushes, are the arms straight, is there strut braces top and bottom. Roll cage? bolt in or fully welded, has the car been seam welded, full interior or stripped out. What size roll bars does it have?
How well can you drive?
Answer some of these questions and perhaps we can point you inthe right direction.

Mine used to be very neutral with the slight tendancy to rear wheel drift if unsettled mid corner, only understeer if I was a dick and was unsmooth or being lazy in the wet or road tyres.
It wasa 4 door as its longer wheelbase was more progressive than the 2 door.
Mine was lowered on custom shock absorbers, shortened body fronts with larger diameter rods and tuned (I hate that playstation word) valving to suit custom length springs circa 35 percent stiffer than standard. the lower control arms pointed about 3 degrees down towards the outside at rest at track weight (1/4 tank of fuel and me in the seat, loose items removed and race seat).
I ran -3.5 degree camber front -1.5 rear (modified turrets)
Zero toe on the rear, 2 degree toe out onthe front
Largest front 28mm and rear 22mm sway bar I could find
Most bushes replaced with off the shelf nurothane, rear arm outer bushes in super hard nylon as standard bushes allow +/- 10mm toe change on the aligner just using my arms.
upper and lower strut braces, and I welded rods into the rear standard arms to stiffen them up.
I had no cage but the car was partially seam welded around turrets, front suspension and door openings.
I ran 205/40/16 tyres in various guises good ones were great, poor ones were OK, massively overtyred for a 800kg car. I ran 32 psi hot.
This was a 8 valve as well and would drive around the outside of GTi's given enough road space or track space. It did upset them on many occasions, I also had the car for over 13 years so had confidece in it and have been racing cars for 20 so I can peddle a car reasonably well smooth application of wheel and throttle and brakes of course. thay are light weight cars.

GTP

Ok thanks here goes then LOL ill list everything on the car at the mo handling wise bearing in mind in a justy 4wd with 215 Hp at the wheels and a welded rear diff

Konis Honda civic coilover conversion hieght and damper adjust all rond around 20mm wheel to arch clearance on the front and around 10mm on the back dampers set to hard as poss the back of a bit of a turn front and back
Front camber adjusters set to around 2degress tracking standard front n back
Toyo r888 195/50/15s
Strut braces top front and back
Standard bushes at the mo going Polly bush all rond with the caster ones on the front
Standard anti roll bars can't find large 1 for the rear of a justy
I've got camber adjusters made on a set of rear arms waiting to go on
I find it handles fine with the rear diff aslong as I'm accelerating fairly hard and doesnt try power sliding just when you push it hard rond the corner it starts it understeering I brake hard into.the bend turn.in smooth as I get of the brakes start lightly accelerating thru the corner and as i come thru the corner accelerate more until full throttle at the exit

my car has leda coilovers on the front which arent ideal as they are off a rally car and we cant lower the front anymore as run out of adjustment
has rose jointed top mounts but not camber adjustable yet,thats next year
poly bushes all round

rear just has koni adjustables which i havent even touched since i got the car with rising rate rear springs and a larger ARB

car has no understeer to speak of and does get a bit back-endy under heavy braking and sometimes if you turn in a bit too quick but thats how i like it as it then resembles what a go-kart does which i raced for 20 odd years

next year im going to get some proper coil overs front and rear,either avo or gaz do a set where you dont have to modify the rear arches to fit them.along with some camber adjustable front top mounts and also spacing the front wheels further out to aid turn in,not that personally i think the car needs any help but thats what my spanner man suggests.plus next year ill be on a lot stickier tyres than this year. if you look at other peoples in car videos of my car it does have a lot of body roll compared to a lot of other cars in my class but when you look at how bad their cars understeer ill leave mine as it is i think.championship this year and lap record holder you cant really argue about any of the set up really

too many people have their cars way too stiff,remember their not touring cars on super sticky slicks

must be avo's as my mate has full gaz kit for his F1000 rally car and its still a shocker + spring setup on the rear

As its an AWD with power and a rear diff locked it will push understeer, get a rear lsd, Is the centre diff locked, I expect if it is not that might be a problem as under some conditions the rear drive wont be engaged and the front will be draging a locked rear axle throught he corner until you get onthe power?.
I experienced similar understeer in the escort with the LSD shimmed up so tight it would just push straight ahead under power like the diff was locked up, backed it off and it was fine again.
The AWD will have a natural tendancy to four wheel drift into understeer, lower the pressure of the rear tyres a bit, might help reduce lateral traction to help it break free a bit. Rear wheel drive is faster, AWD uses front to help get off the line and in snow, front drive is for nanas. Yes I said it!
Handling is about wheel and body control in particular maintaing wheel geometry against body angle and controling the bodies movement compared to the road. Too stiff suspension is bad unless thr car is super stiff. my swift prior to seam welding would twist under suspension load so badly the interior light came on, meaning the door gap opened under cornering load. The suspension was so stiff the body was providing ride compliance. Body roll is not bad if you have the right degree of wheel control and static geometry, the objective is to keep the biggest tyre contact patch on the loaded wheels for as long as possible, through the dynamic range of suspension travel. I and my driving style like a point front and slippery rear, not skitish or hopping but predictable sliding. (we ran 205/50/13 inch slicks on the front of a mini with 185/60/13s on the rear, the smaller tyre being dragged would heat up better than thr dame sized front on the rear and provided better grip and when warm provided a controllable predictable slide erradicating understeer)
Lower the better within reason, with standard suspension pick up points too low is achievable at about 2.5-3 inches lower, rearrange these and you can get it lower(touring car style modifications though...read complex and expensive)

More later, Im going to the cinema

GTP

I'm intreaged to read more p.s. I forgot I've got full weld in cage and the mini prop replaced so running a constand 50 50 drive split

Back from he cinema...good film

when you say mini prop do you mean the centre viscous has been welded or locked or just th emini prop shaft has been replaced, the prop alone wont do anything other than allow longevity.

GTP

I took the v/c out completely and the mini prop and made a longer mini prop from stainless to replace the lot wot film was it lol

Now Im intrigued,
We need to talk about Kevin!
tell me more about the maxi mini prop. do you have any photos. If this saves cutting and shutting the viscous it would save me many headaches.
Do tell.

GTP

Basically cut the bosses of the standard mini prop welded to length of stainless machines out the front of the v/c housing to mount bigger bearing removing the 1 at the back of the mini prop reemed out the back of the mini prop housing to give clearance to the shaft and mount a seal in the back ther aswel thus saving a lot of rotating mass think I've got some pics ill have a look

this guy doesnt seem to have problems with understeer

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Kw6jUZ5GnA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5-1pv_ep8o

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MTyTm09AX70

though he has very deep dish wheels like the ones im now putting on

thats awsum he has the wider arches that i wana put on a widen the track wonder if he has welded rear diff