cultus cams

i got some suposed cultus cams a while ago, when i got them they didnt messure up properly
so me and the seller came to an agreement, as i thought they were just std cams (and i still do) i paid £30 which is about the most i would pay for a swift set
but iv just came back from a trip on the mway and she was pulling very well to over 7k, swift cams run out about 6500ish

i know the cultus has slightly more lift and a little bit more duration which will give it a higher rev range
i cant messure the duration but when i messured them the lift was exactly the same as the std cam
dus anyone know when the cultus cams run out of steam?
i think im gona have to put her on the rollers just to see when the power ends
gary

just found this post on t/swift
http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=42808&p=323501&hilit=cultus+cams#p323501

his gti is making power to 7200
i think im defo gona have to get on the rollers to sort this one

gary

Cultus cams have the same duration and 0.5mm more lift.
Cultus DOHC engines produce their maximum power @ 7500 rpm and maximum torque @ 6500 rpm (hence the different ECU fuel cut).

cheers for that
iv booked her in anyway
im between engines at the mo so i still have one of andys chip`s in the ecu
i doubt it will matter but i guess the higher rev limit will help me find out what i need to know
shes an old engine though, over 100k miles on the clock but iv looked after it in that time so i think only 1 or 2 runs just to find out when the power stops

gary

well i can definelty say that they arnt cultus cams, im glad i noticed that they were the same as std otherwise i would`v been ripped off bigtime, id hate to think if someone else got them and didnt notice as the original bid was for £120!!!

anyway just got back from the tuners, and im quite pleased with the results
i told them to go to 7k to begin with, it was still making power so then they went to 7200 and it started to drop off
peak power is at 6737 peak tourqe is at 4503
but its the numbers i cant understand
they did the 2 runs, started packing up so i looked that the screen it said 107 hp, not bad i thought concidering its a pretty much std engine, but then the bloke said thats whp, fly is 127!!!
heres the graph and the numbers to go with it
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11473969@N02/3754057823/sizes/l/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11473969@N02/3754857994/sizes/l/
i still cant belive those numbers though
the only proper mods iv done to that engine are
4-2 mani 2" stainless ex with the cat on (mot on tues)
55mm t/b
and andys grpA chip, its still in there from the other engine, i just couldnt be rsd to change it all for the sake of a coule of months
the cams are obvously standard so i reckon the dyno is way out, there is just no way it could gain 25 hp from those mods

on another note, i thought i`d wack on my old speedlines with the r888`s on them for a laugh
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11473969@N02/3754856884/sizes/l/
i forgot just how silly those tyres are, masive grip at any speed
but i forgot about the huuummmm they make, it sounds like a landrover with proper offroad tyres

gary

Thats some good dyno results that m8, surly the machine has to be acurate im wanting to do something similar and have my hp measured how much is it roughly if u dnt mind me asking

all dynos are different no 2 will give the same bhp best is a engine dyno and then a rolling road just out of curiosity too see whats lost in the drivetrain but thats a lot of work a dyno like that for a power run should be around £50 at most places

steve

A bit oftopic but it's ok to know.
I bought some "hig lift cams" from Sam Hale. But when i got them i could easyly see that it was original cams. The fucker would not giver me cash back even thoug he sold me shit. He had a receipt on a repro at pipercams. But that don't matter if i get a set of original cams. Nothing to do atm. But just dont buy from this guy/gay.

piper cams do use std cams to regrind so they will look like std cams
have you got or know someone that has a micrometer?
the smallest a std cam should be is 40.3mm, heres the page of the factory manual that explains it all
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11473969@N02/3758908378/sizes/o/
if it is smaller than that, then they maybe piper
they take some from the lower rounder part of the loab, so when the hyd lifter adjusts to the cam it will give it higher lift

gary

IanJ wrote:Thats some good dyno results that m8, surly the machine has to be acurate im wanting to do something similar and have my hp measured how much is it roughly if u dnt mind me asking

£55
the tuner there was impressed with the power from a 1.3 with very light mods
the touqe curve starts quite low and stays flat most of the way through, and the afr is perfect
according to him

dominator wrote:piper cams do use std cams to regrind so they will look like std cams
have you got or know someone that has a micrometer?
the smallest a std cam should be is 40.3mm, heres the page of the factory manual that explains it all
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11473969@N02/3758908378/sizes/o/
if it is smaller than that, then they maybe piper
they take some from the lower rounder part of the loab, so when the hyd lifter adjusts to the cam it will give it higher lift

gary

Yes i see. The hight was the same on the cams...

i had a set of pipers they were very good i think they were the 282s got them secong hand you cant chanfe the lift with a regrind only duration unless you want less lift lol

steve

Yes they can weld on the cam and regrind it.

you can weld it but thats the cowboy method
seriously you can change the lift by taking off the base of the loab, iv read countless threads on teamswift about cams for these engines just to under stand them a bit better
according to superf1y who produces some of the best cams from regrinds, if you take some from the base the hyd lifter will adjust to the new base and when the cam comes to lift the valve it will just follow the profile, but because the lifter has raised up due to the lost material off the base it will lift the valve higher
he can do almost any profile and lift that you want from a std set of cams, within reason

gary

yes i have heard that before. Makes sence with the lifter.
With a regrind where you weld on the cam you can change everything you whant realy.

Hi,

Welding wise, I think if you use normal method you will need to heat treat them after. I'm sure Gary can tell you. Otherwise parent material metal will be harder due to introduction of heat.

I think camshafts maker uses fusion method this way all metal surface is same.

Anyway, Teamswift Suprf1y(Mike) can sell you best cams for your need.
I got Suzuki Sports Group A camshafts and they are same as 952 camshafts.
The one I got is made from original blanks.

Regrind one has nothing wrong with them. They will look std and like Gary said, you will need to check smallest diameter to see if it is reground or not.

Gary, I think 125Bhp is about right for your mod.

Cheers
Atchi

yeah heat treating would help but i think adding metal to the cams is a last resort

im still baffled about the power reading atchi i was expecting 110 max

gary

Hi Gary,

Think about it.
It is probed that for Mini1000, by fitting Stage 1 kit it will increase power by 23%. This included an inlet manifold, an air filter(K+N), an exhaust manifold and full system and a needle for carb. This is Mini talk.
If you compare your set up, you have ECU changed, air filter, manifold, full system and TB changed.

So I think 15-20% is good figure. You car is start off with 105Bhp so it is right figure.

I always try to talk with some backing info!

Cheers
Atchi

i guess, im just amazed that a 100k engine can produce that sort of power

anyway, as its gona be nice weather all weekend, im going to be fitting the new engine
fingers crossed

gary

i dont know about mine then! mine pulls hard to 8700!

thats alot of revs, must be very slugish low down. I use the Piper fast road cam, i think the power drops off just after 7000 but i want to get it on the dyno soon to find out for sure.

If your cams are piper regrinds they will have a piper number stamped on the end of them, the seller cant argue with you if its not there