bearings

right im not happy bout this one
the other day i removed the crank etc from my old block to fit to the new one and found no5 bearing has some large scores in it, the only explanation i can think of is that there was a bit of swarf in the oilway of the crank, i wouldnt mind if they were heavyly used but iv only done 1700 miles with them

so i went online (ipp flatlander uk) as i used the toga bearings in the last build, so i thought i would use them again
made the order online got the confirmation email, they even emailed me to see if i wanted to use paypal or the bank direct, a couple of days went past and no reply so i asked them when they will be sent to me and now they are claiming thay there isnt even an order on thier books!!
iv asked them for a uk line but i just keep getting dutch numbers
so iv come to the asumption that there is no uk branch anymore and they just cant be rsd to sort out my lost order
no money has come out yet, that i know of anyway
i phoned suzuki today, 5 main bearings, size black, £107
i dont fancy using some cheapo crap from a motorfactors, so any sugestions?

gary

i use topline bearings mate can et them at most enginnering shops if not acl are very goog

steve

if it was only 5 that was worn this could be an indication that the timing belt was too tight what oil did you use to run it in on

steve

it is number 5 bearing, thats the fly end of the block
heres a pic it will explain it alot better, dont worry bout the red stuff, thats just plastigauge
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11473969@N02/3707193651/sizes/l/
the other 4 bearings are just fine thats why i think it must be a bit of swarf from when they balanced the crank assembaly
iv been doin a fair bit of reserch on this and acl have come up a fair bit, mainly on the skyline forums
if they`re good enough for those monsters they`re good enough for me
iv sent a few emails out but being the weekend now i doubt i`l get any replys till monday

could have been a bit of swarf you should always clean your shit after its been balanced never trust anyone acl are very good but skylines are for pussys who want the easy route waht are you building this engine for

steve

STEVEGTI2 wrote:skylines are for pussys
steve

i know what you mean mate, its the same with all turbo cars tho just one chip and you can have a large amount of power over standard, i can see the attraction, but its not for me
small light cars its the way forward

i havnt been on this forum much so i doubt most of you will know what iv been through, so here it is

bout 3 years ago i bought a spare engine, it took me about 6months to strip it down to nothing, then another 6 to get the work done on it
last year i ended up setting light to my 1st gti, i was welding the sills for the mot when i looked up and saw a large fire in the drivers footwell, i was welding on the other side of the car and yes i took the battery off + and - so i ant got a clue what happend there
the loom was fcuked so i looked for another but had no joy, so over the summer i fully striped her, now i have a complete swift, minus the loom and shell in my shed
i saw my current gti on ebay, i got it for 500 quid, sold all of the ice, janspeed exhaust, brakes and engine and got almost what i paid for the car selling them, so it worked out ok
then i spent about 2 months cleaning and repainting all of the suspension and brakes from my old gti, rebuilding my gbox using 3cyl parts/gripper diff and building the new engine (ali fly, 11.5 comp forged pistons, grpa cams, all gaskets, seals, bearings brand new)
it sort of went ok, the original suspesion was terrible, it was like someone covered it with salt and left it all to rust, the rear anti roll bar fell apart in my hands, luckly the shell is fairly rust free, i had to plasma cut the toe bars off the chassis coz the bolts just would not come out and all but 1 thread on the susp mounts was striped as they were so rusty, so i drilled them out and welded some m10 rivnuts in place of the threads, i think it worked well
i fitted the engine and box no problems
i drove it very gently for 1000 odd miles, which is very hard when using grpa cams belive me
then after that a rattling nose apeared when i put my foot down
i took it to a local jap tuners, they gave it the once over with the stethiscope and came to the conclution that the noise was coming from the head
so i changed the valve springs for catcams set, that was a cock up (it took 3 attempts before i had 16 identical retainers, but thats another story) and fitted the std cams
the noise sort of went, it got a bit quieter atleast, but it was still there when i put the engine under load at low revs and when i got to about 4k, so i took the head off again and noticed that the gap between the piston and cyl looked a bit large
so i pulled the engine (im using the old lump from my 1st gtinow, 100k and stll going strong)
took it all apart got some bore gauges and found out that the firm that did the original work had over bored the cyls by .2mm, it might not sound much but it was enough for the pistons to start rattling in side the bores
i got another block from swiftmotorsport (cheers andy) got the work done that was needed along with some work done to the head, o/s valves and polish ex side only
now im starting the rebuild with the new block

im determind to get on a few tracks with this car, iv done it before at brandshatch years ago, but that was with my old gti using a std lump and gbox
with the new engine i should be getting atleast 130 hp using the grp a cams and high comp ratio, so it should be alot more fun

gary

sounds good but expensive have you thought of turbo so much cheaper and so much more power the black one i just got that will be turbod in a couple of months 150whp is all i want out if it turbo chip tdo4 10psi stock internals bolt on as its the daily drive.

if you are going to stay n/a you really need bigger pistons and 13-1 somethng like that 76mm perfect stock rods with arp bols are good for 8000 all day what managment are you using

steve

p.s also inlet manifold

expensive aint the word steve, if i wanted the easy route i would`v slapped on a light pressure turbo but i want to stick with n/a for now, just to see what i can achive with it, and tbh im not a big fan of turbo, if i was going to go forced induction it would have to be supercharger, just to be a bit different
iv got spare engine, box and a mint 3cyl down the bottom of the garden so never say never, supercharged street sleeper anyone?
im using arp studs and rod bolts anyway so no worrys there mate
iv got one of andys grp a chips in the ecu atm, got a full carb setup using r1 carbs and a mani i made myself which could go on
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11473969@N02/1125103651/sizes/o/
but i might sell that on to fund a t/b setup, stand alone ecu and all that
im just concentrating on getting a working engine in there for now, i`l cross the induction bridge when i come to it

gary

fuck carbs dont go backwards tbs with a emerald haltech or motec if ya got the wonga i hate carbs useless things thers already 2 supercharged swifts in the uk not my thing personally boost all dy baby i just wont to piss off some scoobs skylines ect lol


steve

im sure you will piss them off with andys experience, what sort of 1/4 mile times is he doing now?
im just after some usable power, but surely there is a limit to how much the chassis can handle, drivability wise

gary

i forgot to ask
do you know of a firm that sells valve guides off the shelf, iv yet to ask suzuki but i can imagine it will be expencive
i only need the exhaust side

gary

dont know anywere that does stuff off the shelf everthing i get is always ordered

steve

got a call back from the acl dealer, engine parts uk ltd in essex
the bearings should be with me in about a week
just over £60 inc shipping from aus

gary

yea thats about right mate nice one

steve

they got delivered on monday morn, http://www.flickr.com/photos/11473969@N02/3765653103/sizes/l/
straight away you can tell they are quality bearings, with std shells there is an oilway on the top half but nothing on the bottom
but the acl has a small oilway on the bottom that tapers to help the oil
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11473969@N02/3765653105/
and half the price of oem
the bottom end has been built
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11473969@N02/3765653107/
it dusnt look like much but i just couldnt be arsd to paint this one aswell
all im waitng for is the head to have the new valve guides fitted and engine number 2 is ready to go
also had the swift booked in for the mot today, she passed with flying colours of course

gary

nice one get her running how long do you run your engines in for persally 700 miles minimum is what i do normally around 1000 is nice get some gunge then on the first oil change 15-50 sounds thick but its ideal semi of course on the 15-50

steve

p.s theres magnetic sump plugs on ebay for a fiver there lighter and look cool always good on a new build

just had a call, the head is ready
so theres a small chance it will be in by the end of the wkend, weather permiting of course

the last engine i ran in i did 3k rpm max for about 700 then i took it up another 500rpm as the miles rose
i didnt try to give it max revs until 1500 miles and 2 oil changes later but when i did it got to about 6k and the piston slap was so bad you could feel it loosing power!!
thats when i knew it needed the re-rebuild
as for the oil, just normal 10-40 mineral

gary

already got the mag sump plug
was anodised blue, but i gave the sump a once over with the bbq spray paint yesterday so its black now

gary

its not so much waht you rev it to its the load ive taken new builds to 6k on 200 miles downhill quarter throttle the first 50 miles is when th rings will bed in you want to give it a little at this time and dont drive like a pussy so many peopkle are scared at the begining if its built right and on the right oil it will be fine

steve

almost everything is from the old engine anyway so theres no worrys with the rings etc
its just the bores and the 5 main bearings that will need running in
but im still gona treat it like it was a brand new build!
i think the fitting might be delayed though coz i realy wana use arp fly bolts, im just waiting to see what andy (swiftmotorsport) comes up with

gary

no worries dont rush always take your time thats my rule

steve

more haste, less speed